Roller needles are gaining in popularity as a new, fast manual microshading tool in the permanent makeup industry. However, its never-before-seen appearance and operational techniques have raised a couple eyebrows (no pun intended).
Those with doubts and reservations about roller needles may have the following claims:
1. Roller needles damage the skin through its "rolling" motion.
2. Needles do not go in and out of the skin at the same angle.
In this article, we will look at and evaluate these claims with measurements, calculations, and pictures. We will also help answer common questions that one may have about roller needles.
Those with doubts and reservations about roller needles may have the following claims:
1. Roller needles damage the skin through its "rolling" motion.
2. Needles do not go in and out of the skin at the same angle.
In this article, we will look at and evaluate these claims with measurements, calculations, and pictures. We will also help answer common questions that one may have about roller needles.
Before getting into the details about the working principles of roller needles, let's first look at some Right-After vs. Healed results and the healing process of eyebrow tattoos performed by roller needles.
Old PMU cover-up, using only roller needles.
|
Roller needles combined with line shader for outlines.
|
click image to enlarge
|
These pictures show results after one session before touch-up.
As one can see, the brows performed by roller needles go through a normal healing process. Excessive skin damage was not present during any stage of healing. Very light scabbing was experienced. Scabs fell out entirely by day 6 and what followed was minor "ghosting" of color with color coming back a few days later. All was expected and representative of a normal healing process. Quality pigment and proper aftercare also played their part. |
As shown, the brows done by roller needles do go through a typical, normal healing process. Now let's discover how roller needles are different than traditional shading tools.
Let's first watch a slow-motion video of how roller needles dispense pigment into the skin.
From the picture, one can see that the roller needle leaves a trail of tiny dots with each stroke similar to the trail left by a machine dispensing pigment.
With this in mind, however, roller needles do work differently than how tattoo machines or traditional manual tools work. If one follows each needle during its penetration of the skin, one will see that as the roller needle rolls over the surface of the skin, each needle goes in and comes out of the skin at slightly different angles. While no "ripping" or "scratching" can be perceived during the rolling motion, one may ask whether the angle discrepancy really makes a difference in regards to skin damage compared to the skin damage associated with other tattooing methods and needles that go straight in and out at the same angle?
Let's look at some micro-photographs of shading results using roller needles vs. machine needles.
PLEASE NOTE that these pictures are taken with a digital microscope and not with a typical camera.
Dots made by machine shown under a digital microscope
|
Dots made by roller needles shown under a digital microscope
|
As one can see, there are more similarities than differences between the dots created by the two devices.
One thing that one notices with the dots created by machine is that the pigment did not solidly fill in the skin opening, resulting in dots with little pigment in them. Using roller needles, this issue appears less prominent (see above pictures. The results created by machine with machine cartridge fully loaded with pigment, show a decent quantity of "empty" dots. The roller needle dots appear generally more saturated with pigment). Our theory for this is that needles going in and coming out of the skin at different angles creates greater movement under the skin resulting in pigments being more likely to adhere to and stay under the skin. If true, roller needles can dispense pigment into the skin more efficiently. The theory is supported anecdotally from our personal experience. Anecdotally, we also discovered that in addition to the ability of roller needles to finish a pass more quickly, less passes were needed when shading with roller needles.
One thing that one notices with the dots created by machine is that the pigment did not solidly fill in the skin opening, resulting in dots with little pigment in them. Using roller needles, this issue appears less prominent (see above pictures. The results created by machine with machine cartridge fully loaded with pigment, show a decent quantity of "empty" dots. The roller needle dots appear generally more saturated with pigment). Our theory for this is that needles going in and coming out of the skin at different angles creates greater movement under the skin resulting in pigments being more likely to adhere to and stay under the skin. If true, roller needles can dispense pigment into the skin more efficiently. The theory is supported anecdotally from our personal experience. Anecdotally, we also discovered that in addition to the ability of roller needles to finish a pass more quickly, less passes were needed when shading with roller needles.
Still have concerns and reservations about roller needles potentially creating greater skin damage than regular shading methods due to needles going in and coming out of the skin at different angles? Rest assured as calculations are performed for the sizes of skin openings created by roller needles vs. machine needles with each penetration.
Angle ∠CBD is for a singular needle penetrating the skin. Angle ∠CBD travels a 32-degree curve and becomes ∠C'BD' before leaving the skin. The total area of the longitudinal sectional skin opening is the area of ΔIBJ
From measurements, a needle penetrates the skin at a 106-degree angle when it initially makes contact with the surface of the skin. The same needle exits the skin at a 74-degree angle. This means that under the skin surface, each needle makes a 32-degree curve, longitudinally creating a triangular skin opening when neglecting the elasticity of skin.
Per specifications and confirmed by measurements, each needle is 30 degrees at its pinpoint. Assuming a penetration depth of 0.2mm when the needle is 90 degrees perpendicular to the skin, the total cross-section skin opening including the size of the needle itself is 0.024 square millimeters.
Area ΔABC is the total area of skin opening that a 0.3mm 1RL machine needle would make. Knowing the length of AC and DB, the area of ABC is calculated.
Now let's compare that with the skin opening that a 0.3mm, 1RL machine needle would make.
Assuming the same penetration depth of 0.2mm, the width of the needle is 0.3mm and intuitively the needle goes in and out of the skin at the same angle of 90 degrees. Per measurements, a triangular pinpoint is approximately 0.2mm in length. The longitudinal-sectional skin opening a 1RL needle makes at each penetration is 0.03 square millimeters.
Assuming the same penetration depth of 0.2mm, the width of the needle is 0.3mm and intuitively the needle goes in and out of the skin at the same angle of 90 degrees. Per measurements, a triangular pinpoint is approximately 0.2mm in length. The longitudinal-sectional skin opening a 1RL needle makes at each penetration is 0.03 square millimeters.
Now one has seen that longitudinal-sectional skin cuts made by the roller needles are LESS THAN skin cuts made by a 0.3mm 1RL machine needle.
What about cross-sectional cut size?
For roller needles, given that the cut each needle makes is 0.24mm wide as well as given that the width of each needle is 0.1mm, a cross-sectional skin cut area of 0.024 square millimeters is made rectangularly.
For the 0.3mm 1RL machine needle, the cross-sectional skin cut area is calculated to be 0.07 square millimeters given the 0.3mm diameter of the needle.
Therefore, the cross-sectional cut made by a single roller needle is smaller in size than the cross-sectional cut made by a 0.3mm 1RL needle.
Lastly, with the information above, the volume of skin opening created by a roller needle is computed to be 0.0016 cubic millimeters, while the volume of skin opening created by a 0.3mm 1RL needle is computed to be 0.0047 cubic millimeters, neglecting the elasticity of skin.
What about cross-sectional cut size?
For roller needles, given that the cut each needle makes is 0.24mm wide as well as given that the width of each needle is 0.1mm, a cross-sectional skin cut area of 0.024 square millimeters is made rectangularly.
For the 0.3mm 1RL machine needle, the cross-sectional skin cut area is calculated to be 0.07 square millimeters given the 0.3mm diameter of the needle.
Therefore, the cross-sectional cut made by a single roller needle is smaller in size than the cross-sectional cut made by a 0.3mm 1RL needle.
Lastly, with the information above, the volume of skin opening created by a roller needle is computed to be 0.0016 cubic millimeters, while the volume of skin opening created by a 0.3mm 1RL needle is computed to be 0.0047 cubic millimeters, neglecting the elasticity of skin.
Conclusion: With each penetration, the skin opening created by a roller needle is smaller in size than the skin opening created by a 0.3mm 1RL machine needle.
Now we have learned that rolling needles across the skin compared to regular needles going straight in and out out of the skin, does NOT result in greater skin trauma. Furthermore, IF it did, the overall impacts would be negligible.
As one is aware, each and every nanometer of skin is penetrated and battered over and over again during permanent makeup procedures, with one "dot" next to another, dots overlapping and on top of each other. Given this, the minute size and shape of the skin opening that each "dot" creates is negligible. Penetration depth, which is determined by the pressure exerted by the technician, is the important factor that matters. With roller needles, the needles go as deep or as shallow as one wishes and allows, just like any other shading tool. From personal experience, roller needles are easy to control for penetration depth and it is easier to go "too deep" with a regular tapping tool than with roller needles.
Other Misconceptions & FAQ
Misconception #1: Roller needles are just Derma rollers reinvented. Derma rollers are proven harmful.
Firstly, Derma rollers are NOT used for permanent makeup procedures. After substantial research, the following information on why Derma rollers are considered harmful by some:
At-home DIY derma rolling can potentially damage skin because of a lack of sterilization and incorrect penetration depth done by non-professionals. According to dermatologist Dr. Anjali Mahto, "(derma rolling) should be carried out by a professional in a clean sterile environment" (credit: Dr. Anjali Mahto, consultant dermatologist and British Skin Foundation spokesperson, DailyMail).
Roller needles, a tool used in an entirely different procedure, are controlled and can only be used by professional PMU technicians in a sterile environment. Therefore, the concerns by dermatologists with dermal rollers are not applicable for roller needles.
Some argue that one of the reasons why derma rollers are harmful is because of the rolling motions which make the needles "rip" the skin. We cannot determine or speak for whether derma rollers "rip" the skin, but for roller needles, as previously discussed, it was concluded that the skin openings created by roller needles are smaller than the skin openings created by a 0.3mm 1RL machine needle (see the pictures of the day-by-day healing process for eyebrows done by roller needles, pictures showing the comparison between dots created by roller needles versus dots created by machine under a microscope, and see the detailed measurements and calculations on skin trauma created by roller needles). Furthermore, penetration density during PMU procedures is far greater than penetration density during dermal rolling/microneedling procedures. As long as penetration depth is controlled, the size and impact of individual skin openings are negligible overall.
Firstly, Derma rollers are NOT used for permanent makeup procedures. After substantial research, the following information on why Derma rollers are considered harmful by some:
At-home DIY derma rolling can potentially damage skin because of a lack of sterilization and incorrect penetration depth done by non-professionals. According to dermatologist Dr. Anjali Mahto, "(derma rolling) should be carried out by a professional in a clean sterile environment" (credit: Dr. Anjali Mahto, consultant dermatologist and British Skin Foundation spokesperson, DailyMail).
Roller needles, a tool used in an entirely different procedure, are controlled and can only be used by professional PMU technicians in a sterile environment. Therefore, the concerns by dermatologists with dermal rollers are not applicable for roller needles.
Some argue that one of the reasons why derma rollers are harmful is because of the rolling motions which make the needles "rip" the skin. We cannot determine or speak for whether derma rollers "rip" the skin, but for roller needles, as previously discussed, it was concluded that the skin openings created by roller needles are smaller than the skin openings created by a 0.3mm 1RL machine needle (see the pictures of the day-by-day healing process for eyebrows done by roller needles, pictures showing the comparison between dots created by roller needles versus dots created by machine under a microscope, and see the detailed measurements and calculations on skin trauma created by roller needles). Furthermore, penetration density during PMU procedures is far greater than penetration density during dermal rolling/microneedling procedures. As long as penetration depth is controlled, the size and impact of individual skin openings are negligible overall.
Misconception #2: Rollers have been used for Scalp Micropigmentation and the results were far from good. Therefore, eyebrow tattoos done by rollers must also have subpar results.
Both right-after and healed result pictures can be found at the beginning of this article. In practice, it is shown that microshading eyebrows with roller needles creates results just as good as results accomplished with other shading methods.
We have seen pictures and videos of scalp micropigmentation procedures done by rollers. As scalp micropigmentation professionals, we 100% agree that rollers should not be used on scalp to emulate hair follicles. The outcome of SMP procedures done by single needles/3RLs are far more realistic and detailed.
However, scalp micropigmentation and eyebrow microshading are entirely different procedures. The rollers used for scalp micropigmentation look and function differently than these roller needles.
During SMP, the goal is to create the imitation of real hair follicles. Therefore, the procedure is focused on creating individual dots that do not overlap each other. It is not a good idea to "roll" the needles across the scalp to create multiple dots with one stroke because real hair follicles are never as unified as dots created this way. Eyebrow microshading, on the other hand, is focused on creating "shades." Dots in microshading processes are connected and overlap one another to form gradient color blocks. For eyebrow microshading with a higher penetration density, whether dots are created individually or whether multiple dots are created with one stroke, has little impact on the overall outcome.
Both right-after and healed result pictures can be found at the beginning of this article. In practice, it is shown that microshading eyebrows with roller needles creates results just as good as results accomplished with other shading methods.
We have seen pictures and videos of scalp micropigmentation procedures done by rollers. As scalp micropigmentation professionals, we 100% agree that rollers should not be used on scalp to emulate hair follicles. The outcome of SMP procedures done by single needles/3RLs are far more realistic and detailed.
However, scalp micropigmentation and eyebrow microshading are entirely different procedures. The rollers used for scalp micropigmentation look and function differently than these roller needles.
During SMP, the goal is to create the imitation of real hair follicles. Therefore, the procedure is focused on creating individual dots that do not overlap each other. It is not a good idea to "roll" the needles across the scalp to create multiple dots with one stroke because real hair follicles are never as unified as dots created this way. Eyebrow microshading, on the other hand, is focused on creating "shades." Dots in microshading processes are connected and overlap one another to form gradient color blocks. For eyebrow microshading with a higher penetration density, whether dots are created individually or whether multiple dots are created with one stroke, has little impact on the overall outcome.
Misconception #3: Roller needles tend to go deeper than traditional microshading needles.
False. Just like any other shading tool, roller needles go as deep or as shallow into the skin as one controls and allows. Penetration depth with roller needles shall be similar to penetration depth with other shading methods on the upper part of the dermis. Lymphs during the procedure are okay and minimal bleeding shall be expected. From our experience, it is easier to go "too deep" with traditional tapping methods than with roller needles.
False. Just like any other shading tool, roller needles go as deep or as shallow into the skin as one controls and allows. Penetration depth with roller needles shall be similar to penetration depth with other shading methods on the upper part of the dermis. Lymphs during the procedure are okay and minimal bleeding shall be expected. From our experience, it is easier to go "too deep" with traditional tapping methods than with roller needles.
4. I have seen work performed by roller needles on artificial skin and the shadings look pixelated.
Pixelated shading is caused by the following:
1. Only using 10mm needles without performing a couple detailing passes with 7mm needles.
2. Doing all strokes in the same direction.
To learn more about how to achieve soft and powdery shading with roller needles and the techniques, please click here for more information.
Additionally, shading performed by roller needles tend to look softer on real skin. Latex skins tend to exaggerate the pixelated effects.
Pixelated shading is caused by the following:
1. Only using 10mm needles without performing a couple detailing passes with 7mm needles.
2. Doing all strokes in the same direction.
To learn more about how to achieve soft and powdery shading with roller needles and the techniques, please click here for more information.
Additionally, shading performed by roller needles tend to look softer on real skin. Latex skins tend to exaggerate the pixelated effects.
5. Are the roller needles properly sterilized?
YES. The roller needles available here at BROWSorceries are sterilized with EO gas. Each roller needle has a lot number and expiration date printed on the sealed package. Up-to-date sterilization certifications are available here.
YES. The roller needles available here at BROWSorceries are sterilized with EO gas. Each roller needle has a lot number and expiration date printed on the sealed package. Up-to-date sterilization certifications are available here.
6. Why would I choose roller needles over other shading tools?
With multiple penetrations created in one stroke, roller needles are a fast manual shading method. Roller needles also penetrate more uniformly than needles using traditional tapping methods, delivering more even results after healing. Shading with roller needles can be as fast as shading with a machine, but without the vibration and buzzing, or the hefty cost of a machine. Therefore, many professionals find roller needles both effective and easy to use.
With multiple penetrations created in one stroke, roller needles are a fast manual shading method. Roller needles also penetrate more uniformly than needles using traditional tapping methods, delivering more even results after healing. Shading with roller needles can be as fast as shading with a machine, but without the vibration and buzzing, or the hefty cost of a machine. Therefore, many professionals find roller needles both effective and easy to use.
7. Can roller needles replace PMU machines?
NO. With all of the needle configurations and various speeds, it is impossible for any manual tool to replace a PMU machine. Roller needles are an option for those that are not used to machine shading while seeking a faster alternative to traditional manual tools. Roller needles are another tool for PMU professionals.
NO. With all of the needle configurations and various speeds, it is impossible for any manual tool to replace a PMU machine. Roller needles are an option for those that are not used to machine shading while seeking a faster alternative to traditional manual tools. Roller needles are another tool for PMU professionals.
8. I have tried roller needles and found that they are not very good at making sharp and defined outlines and tails.
That is 100% true. Occasionally, outlines and tails are fuzzy and dotty when using roller needles. Roller needles are very fast at shading but not the ideal tool when it comes to detailing or sharpening outlines. It is recommended that one use a line shader (or round shader as one prefers) to define outlines and tails while using roller needles on larger areas within outlines.
That is 100% true. Occasionally, outlines and tails are fuzzy and dotty when using roller needles. Roller needles are very fast at shading but not the ideal tool when it comes to detailing or sharpening outlines. It is recommended that one use a line shader (or round shader as one prefers) to define outlines and tails while using roller needles on larger areas within outlines.
9. Do you offer training on roller needle techniques?
At the moment, PMU professionals can read and share the information and tips on roller needles found here. Our goal currently is to inform more PMU professionals about this emerging industry tool. We may offer in-depth training on roller needles in the future. If you are a licensed and reputable trainer that would like to collaborate with us, please contact us.
At the moment, PMU professionals can read and share the information and tips on roller needles found here. Our goal currently is to inform more PMU professionals about this emerging industry tool. We may offer in-depth training on roller needles in the future. If you are a licensed and reputable trainer that would like to collaborate with us, please contact us.
10. I am not trained in manual or machine microshading, can I still purchase and use roller needles?
NO. Roller needles are only for trained professionals that are familiar with either manual or machine shading procedures. We reserve the right to check credentials.
NO. Roller needles are only for trained professionals that are familiar with either manual or machine shading procedures. We reserve the right to check credentials.